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Lisbon | Travel Guide

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Lisbon’s winding, cobblestone streets echoed with the sound of our laughter as my college-aged daughter and I explored charming squares for the first two days of my visit. Saying goodbye at the airport was tough, but her suitcase was overflowing with happy memories and maybe a few too many Pastel de Nata! – (cream tarts)

Just when I thought I’d explored every corner of Lisbon, a special reunion with a dear friend from Germany turned things upside down! We embraced with warm hugs in the bustling Rossio Square, our nonstop chatter filling the air. Then came the surprise…octopus? Apparently, my friend had a mission: to conquer my fear. Let’s just say, Lisbon’s culinary scene offers more than just scenic views!

yellow building from Lisbon, Portugal

Lisbon: Where your inner foodie meets the spirit of discovery

In Lisbon, soulful melodies intertwine with the aroma of sizzling seafood. It’s a place where your inner foodie can tango with the spirit of discovery. Get ready to tantalize your taste buds and embrace the vibrant rhythm of Lisbon!

Street light and ceramic tiles, Lisbon
black and white photograph from Lisbon, Portugal

Lisbon, the City of Seven Hills, beckons with its vibrant culture, rich history, and breathtaking beauty. One thing to keep in mind: don’t be fooled by distances on a map! Lisbon’s topography, a charming characteristic with its many viewpoints and winding streets, can make short distances feel longer due to the city’s many hills. To understand Lisbon’s layout properly, we’ll explore Lisbon by it’s historical neighborhoods: Alfama, Baixa, Chiado, Bairro Alto, and Belém.

By using a combination of sidewalks, trams, elevators, funiculars, and taxis, you can navigate Lisbon’s hills with ease and truly immerse yourself in the city’s vibrant energy. Listen to the lively chatter of locals and let the melodies of street performers fill your ears. Uncover hidden gems tucked away on backstreets, charming cafes with the aroma of freshly brewed coffee wafting out the doors, and captivating street art including artistic ceramic tiles adorning unexpected corners. 

Lisbon is a city waiting to be explored, and with a little planning, you too can conquer its hills and discover its magic to have a fantastic time!

Colorful buildings in Lisbon

Exploring Lisbon by it’s historical neighborhoods

ALFAMA

Lisbon’s heart beats strongest in Alfama, its oldest neighborhood. A maze of narrow streets and hidden squares, Alfama is best explored on foot with curiosity as your compass. Around every corner unfolds a new surprise: a tucked-away cafe, history whispering from tiled facades, and vibrant artwork adorning weathered walls.

Alfama’s charm wasn’t always for tourists – its roots lie in being a humble fisherman’s village. Traces of this past linger in the close-knit community feel and the winding, narrow streets. Don’t miss Miradouro de Santa Luzia, a breathtaking viewpoint. Here, terracotta rooftops cascade down the hillside, meeting the sparkling Tagus River framed by a vibrant, flower-laden pergola. Lace up your walking shoes and wander through Alfama’s heart – it’s a journey you won’t forget.

Castle Sao Jorge

Ascend Alfama to Lisbon’s crown jewel, São Jorge Castle. Feel the sun-kissed cobblestones beneath your feet as you explore its ramparts. Soak in panoramic city views and delve into Lisbon’s medieval past, imagining the sights and sounds of a bygone era. While the exact reason for their presence remains a mystery, the peacocks at São Jorge Castle have become an unexpected part of the castle’s charm. These magnificent birds add a touch of whimsy to your exploration of Lisbon’s medieval past.

BAIXA

Baixa, Lisbon’s energetic and historic downtown district, is a must-visit for any visitor. Located at the foot of Alfama, it sprawls along the Tagus River, offering a stark contrast to the older neighborhood’s labyrinthine streets. Baixa boasts grand squares lined with impressive neoclassical architecture, creating a vibrant and bustling atmosphere.

Baixa boasts a wealth of architectural wonders that tell the story of Lisbon’s past and present. Start your exploration at the grand Praça do Comércio, a massive riverside square that was once the gateway to Lisbon by sea. Lined with impressive 18th-century buildings in a warm palette, it’s a popular spot today for shopping, people-watching, and admiring the city’s rich history etched in stone.

Connecting Praça do Comércio to the vibrant pedestrian shopping street Rua Augusta is the magnificent Triumphal Arch Rua Augusta. Decorated with statues and reliefs that tell the story of Lisbon’s triumphs, this arch is a work of art in itself.

For panoramic city views, take a ride on the neo-Gothic Santa Justa Lift, which whisks you up to the Chiado district.

Finally, no visit to Baixa would be complete without experiencing Rossio Square, nicknamed “the heart of Lisbon.” This bustling square is a popular meeting spot adorned with neoclassical architecture. Don’t forget to snap a photo with the iconic black and white wave patterned pavement – a true Lisbon landmark!

the famous wave pattern of Rossio Square, Lisbon, Portugal

Time Out Market

Embark on a culinary adventure at the Time Out Market. Sample a variety of Portuguese delicacies from diverse vendors. Immerse yourself in the lively atmosphere and enticing aromas of grilling fish, sizzling meat, and freshly baked pastries.

Bica Funicular

Ascend the steep Bica slope in style aboard the Bica Funicular, a charming funicular railway offering a unique perspective of the city. Feel the slight pull as the funicular climbs, the city slowly unfolding beneath you.

Tram 28, Lisbon, Portugal

Confeitaria Nacional

This iconic pastry shop has been serving up delicious sweets since 1829. Be sure to try the famous “pastéis de nata.”

Confeitaria Nacional, cafe in Lisbon, Portugal

The Folks

This coffee shop isn’t just a cafe, it’s a Lisbon institution. With locations scattered throughout the city, each with its own unique charm, The Folks offers a haven for coffee connoisseurs and breakfast enthusiasts alike. They pride themselves on their dedication to the art of brewing exceptional coffee. Whether you’re a fan of a classic espresso or prefer something more adventurous, their skilled baristas will create the perfect cup to jumpstart your day.

Folks coffee, Lisbon
Folks coffee, Lisbon

Restaurante Cerqueira

Restaurante Cerqueira’s menu features octopus with rice, and Nina, ever the adventurous one, insisted I try it. With reassurances that “it tastes like chicken,” she convinced me to take a leap of faith. Let’s just say the experience was interesting! While I appreciate Nina’s encouragement and the delicious rice, octopus isn’t quite on my list of repeat orders. Restaurante Cerqueira, however, remains a delightful hidden gem. It’s a place where you can savor delicious food, feel the heart of the local community, and experience the genuine warmth of Portuguese hospitality. Just maybe, if you visit,  be prepared to step outside your comfort zone – you might discover a new favorite dish, or at least a fun story to tell!

BARRIO ALTO and CHICADO

Bairro Alto is characterized as a bohemian area, known for its nightlife scene with numerous small bars and fado restaurants. Chiado is an elegant and fashionable neighborhood, popular for shopping, theatres, museums, and historic monuments. It is often compared to Paris’ Montmartre district.

Confeitaria Nacional, cafe in Lisbon, Portugal

Carmo Convent

Rising from the heart of Lisbon’s Chiado district, the Carmo Convent stands as a haunting yet beautiful reminder of the city’s resilience. This Gothic masterpiece, ravaged by the Great Lisbon Earthquake of 1755, boasts a roofless nave that exposes the sky. Sunlight streams through the skeletal arches, casting an ethereal glow on the weathered stone walls. Despite the scars of the past, the intricate carvings and window details whisper tales of a bygone era. Today, the Carmo Convent houses a fascinating archaeological museum, offering a glimpse into Lisbon’s rich history.

Carmo Convent, Lisbon

Soulful Fado Melodies

Immerse yourself in the melancholic beauty of Fado, Portugal’s traditional music. Savor a captivating dinner performance and let the soulful melodies transport you as the music blends with the clinking of glasses and the murmurs of conversation.

Retiro dos Sentidos

This cozy restaurant offers a unique dining experience with a focus on local, seasonal ingredients. In the evenings, your meal is serenaded by live Fado music, adding a touch of cultural magic to your unforgettable dining experience.

Cervejaria Trindade

This historic brewery is now a popular restaurant serving traditional Portuguese cuisine. The menu includes dishes like codfish, steak, and stew.

Tram 28

Lisbon’s iconic Tram 28 isn’t just a mode of transport, it’s an experience in itself – but be prepared to have patience! The tram’s popularity translates to long lines, especially during peak hours. After seeing how long these lines are, we decided to wait and ride the tram first thing the next morning at Martim Moniz in Baixa. Thankfully, we were rewarded with a shorter wait. As we boarded the tram, the rhythmic “clang” of the bell replaced the morning quietude, blending with the city’s vibrant energy. As the tram swayed gently, we captured fleeting glimpses of local life through the windows. Our journey ended in Estrela, where we hailed a taxi to continue our exploration around Belém.

Tram 28, Lisbon, Portugal
Tram 28, Lisbon, Portugal
Tram 28, Lisbon, Portugal

BELEM

Belém, Lisbon’s western gem, is a treasure trove of history and culinary delights. Explore iconic landmarks like the Jerónimos Monastery and Belém Tower, both UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Don’t forget to tempt your taste buds with Portugal’s most famous pastry, the Pastel de Nata, from its birthplace – Pastéis de Belém.

Jerónimos Monastery

Be awestruck by the architectural mastery of the Jerónimos Monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Run your fingers along the intricately carved details and feel the cool marble floors underfoot. Immerse yourself in the rich history, imagining the whispers of monks and the scent of incense.

Pastéis de Belém

Just steps away, however, resides a much smaller yet also significant landmark: Pastéis de Belém, the bakery credited with creating the iconic Pastel de Nata (cream tart). For centuries, this bakery follows a secret recipe, resulting in these heavenly tarts with their perfectly crispy, flaky crust and a rich, creamy custard filling. The lines can be long, but sinking your teeth into a Pastel de Nata fresh from Pastéis de Belém is an experience not to be missed. So, after marveling at the architectural wonder of the Jerónimos Monastery, treat yourself to a taste of Lisbon’s culinary heritage at Pastéis de Belém.

Belém Tower

Journey back in time at the Belém Tower, a magnificent symbol of Portugal’s maritime prowess. Touch the weathered stone walls that have withstood centuries of sea winds and salty spray. Explore its fortifications and imagine the daring voyages of exploration, the salty tang of the ocean on your lips.

Pastel de Nata Cooking Class

Imagine the enticing aroma of Pastel de Nata filling the air as you master the art of creating this iconic Portuguese pastry. Unlock the secrets behind the delicate, flaky crust and creamy, sweet filling in a fun and hands-on cooking class. Join the experts at Homecooking Lisbon for a 2-hour Pastel de Nata adventure, and savor the fruits (or should we say pastries?) of your labor – a true delight!

Sunset in CACILHAS

Savor the tranquility of the Tagus River on a leisurely stroll along the bank, listening to the soothing whisper of waves lapping against the shore and the melodic calls of seagulls. Take a scenic ferry ride across the Tagus to Cacilhas, it unfolds like a dream. Once on the Cacilhas side of the river, watch as the sun dips towards the horizon and the sky explodes in a kaleidoscope of colors. Lisbon’s skyline shimmers in the fading light, the perfect backdrop for a delicious dinner. Indulge in fresh local delicacies while the salty scent of the ocean mingles with the enticing aroma of grilled fish wafting from nearby restaurants. Cacilhas offers a feast for the senses, a perfect way to end an unforgettable Lisbon day.

ferry window in Lisbon
Street art in CACILHAS, Lisbon
ferry in Lisbon
Sunset in CACILHAS, Lisbon
Sunset in CACILHAS, Lisbon
Sunset in CACILHAS, Lisbon

Atira-te ao Rio

This restaurant offers stunning views of the Tagus River and serves contemporary Portuguese cuisine. The menu includes fish, seafood, and meat dishes.

Sunset in CACILHAS, Lisbon
Sunset in CACILHAS, Lisbon
Sunset in CACILHAS, Lisbon

Day Trip to Pena Palace in SINTRA

Nestled amidst the verdant hills outside Lisbon lies Sintra, a town that feels like it stepped out of a storybook. This charming escape is renowned for its romantic palaces, with Pena National Palace standing out as the town’s crown jewel. A variety of architectural styles – from Moorish turrets to whimsical Gothic Revival – creates a visual feast that embodies Romanticism at its finest. Imagine vibrant yellows and fiery reds contrasting with the lush green surroundings, all adorned with ornamental details and gargoyles that seem to come alive with hidden stories. Pena Palace is a testament to King Ferdinand II’s artistic spirit, a place where imagination reigns supreme.

colorful buildings of Pena Palace in Sintra, Portugal

Pena Palace can be reached by taking a scenic train ride from Rossio Train Station (not to be confused with Rossio Metro Station). Trains depart roughly twice an hour, and the journey takes about 40 minutes depending on the train. Tickets can be purchased at Rossio Station or online beforehand for your convenience.

Once you arrive in Sintra, the adventure continues! Taxis and buses are readily available to whisk you to the entrance of the Pena Palace grounds. A heads up: the entrance itself is a 30-minute uphill walk from the drop-off point. 

colorful buildings of Pena Palace in Sintra, Portugal
colorful buildings of Pena Palace in Sintra, Portugal
colorful buildings of Pena Palace in Sintra, Portugal
colorful buildings of Pena Palace in Sintra, Portugal
colorful buildings of Pena Palace in Sintra, Portugal
colorful buildings of Pena Palace in Sintra, Portugal
colorful buildings of Pena Palace in Sintra, Portugal
colorful buildings of Pena Palace in Sintra, Portugal
colorful buildings of Pena Palace in Sintra, Portugal
colorful buildings of Pena Palace in Sintra, Portugal

Casa de Ana

Think comforting quiches, delectable deli sandwiches, freshly hand-squeezed orange juice, and a tempting array of desserts. We couldn’t resist indulging in the local specialty: Queijadas de Sintra. These small, sweet cheese tarts are a true revelation. Made with fresh cheese, eggs, and sugar, they boast a delicate and creamy texture that melts in your mouth. Each bite is a delightful explosion of flavor, a perfect representation of Sintra’s culinary heritage. Queijadas de Sintra have a cheese with a slightly less sweet taste compared to Patel de Nata. Casa de Ana offers a taste of local charm and a chance to savor the flavors that define Sintra.

Local flavor

With its fresh ingredients, traditional flavors, and wide variety of options, Lisbon’s culinary scene is a feast for the senses. Beyond restaurant meals, Portugal boasts a rich tradition of canned sardines, a national treasure. We wandered through the vibrant markets, marveling at the colorful displays of these little tins. Each can is a miniature work of art, showcasing Portugal’s love for seafood and its artistic flair. We couldn’t resist picking up a few cans – the perfect souvenir to bring back a taste of Lisbon and share with loved ones back home.

A must-try for any seafood lover is Bacalhau. We opted for the classic “Bacalhau à Brás,” a comforting scramble of codfish, fluffy eggs, potatoes, and black olives. The combination of textures – the flaky fish, the creamy eggs, and the salty pops of olives – was a true delight.

Another local favorite we couldn’t resist was Arroz de Pato. Tempted by what the locals were enjoying at a cozy restaurant in Chiado, we dove into this flavorful duck rice dish. The rich, savory broth combined perfectly with tender duck pieces, smoky sausage, and colorful vegetables for a truly satisfying experience.

For a taste of Portugal’s soul food, look no further than Caldo Verde. This vibrant green soup, brimming with kale, pureed potatoes, and slices of chorizo sausage, is a hearty and comforting starter. The kale’s slight bitterness is perfectly balanced by the creamy potatoes and the smoky chorizo, making it a delicious introduction to Portuguese cuisine.

black and white image of laundry hanging in Lisbon

And no trip to Lisbon is complete without indulging in a small but mighty treat – Ginjinha. This sweet cherry liqueur, traditionally served in a dark chocolate cup you can eat (!), is the perfect way to end a meal or explore the city’s vibrant nightlife scene.

These are just a few of the many culinary treasures Lisbon has to offer. So, delve into the local markets, cozy restaurants, and hidden gems – there’s a flavor adventure waiting around every corner!

In conclusion, Lisbon is a city waiting to be explored. While tram 28 might be a must-do, don’t be afraid to get lost in the charming Alfama district, wander along the scenic Tagus River, or discover hidden gems tucked away in unexpected corners. Fuel up on Pastel de Nata (don’t miss these!), sip on a refreshing Ginjinha, and soak in the warmth of Portuguese hospitality. Lisbon promises an unforgettable experience – are you ready to discover its magic?

Rossio Square, Lisbon, Portugal
Rossio Train station entrance, Lisbon, Portugal
boat sailing near CACILHAS, Lisbon
Map thanks to Wanderlog, a trip planner app on iOS and Android

The print shop

If you’d like to purchase photographs to remember your visit to Lisbon, please check out my print shop!

Laura

Hi, I'm Laura Mares! I'm thankful to be a wife, mother and Pittsburgh lifestyle photographer. I photograph because I believe that life is simply beautiful and every person has a story worth telling. I'd love to tell yours.

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